Collagen is the body's most abundant protein — it keeps skin firm and elastic, but its levels decline with age. Writing for NPR, Maria Godoy examines why so many people turn to collagen supplements and whether they truly deliver on their anti-aging claims.
Collagen is found throughout the body — in skin, hair, nails, cartilage, and bones — where Godoy says it "helps maintain our skin's elasticity and volume."
Starting in our 20s, the amount and quality of the collagen our bodies produce declines, she writes. That process can be accelerated by UV radiation, smoking, and environmental pollutants, which helps explain the rise of collagen supplements marketed as the modern-day fountain of youth.
Most collagen supplements come in two forms. Hydrolyzed collagen peptides — collagen that's been broken into smaller amino acid chains — are derived from animal sources such as fish, cattle, pigs, or chicken. According to Lauren Taglia, a board-certified dermatologist at Northwest Medicine, "[t]he theory is that if you ingest [a collagen supplement,] it goes through the GI tract and gets absorbed and then it theoretically goes to places to support or increase collagen production."
The second form, undenatured or native type II collagen, hasn't been broken down and comes from chickens. Because type II collagen makes up much of the cartilage in joints, these supplements are thought to work by triggering the immune system to produce chemical messengers that reduce inflammation.
Some studies suggest collagen supplements may help improve skin health. "There have been randomized controlled trials that have shown that after 8 to 12 weeks of collagen supplementation, things like depth of wrinkles, skin elasticity, dermal thickness seem to be improved," said Maryanne Makredes Senna, an assistant professor of dermatology at Harvard Medical School.
A 2021 meta-analysis of 19 studies found that, compared with a placebo, people taking collagen supplements had better skin hydration, elasticity, and improvements in wrinkles. A second meta-analysis published this year reviewed 23 randomized controlled trials with more than 1,400 participants and reported significant improvements in those same areas after 90 days.
Still, the research comes with caveats. "The studies that found the biggest improvements were lower-quality and were funded by the supplement industry," Senna said. "High-quality studies and studies not funded by industry did not show a significant association rate."
When it comes to joint health, the pattern is similar. Studies have linked collagen to reduced osteoarthritis pain, but according to David Felson, an osteoarthritis researcher and professor at Boston University, "much of the research is industry funded, so it can be hard to disentangle potential bias."
One systematic review found that most studies on collagen for rheumatoid arthritis and osteoarthritis "were too low quality to determine whether they really helped," and some reported "adverse effects, such as an exacerbation of symptoms," Godoy writes.
"With respect to collagen, I don't know what the right answer is," Felson said. It could potentially help, but "there are no large-scale studies here and there need to be."
Dermatologists and researchers agree that while collagen supplements show potential, the evidence isn't yet strong enough to recommend them widely. If you're looking to improve your skin, collagen supplements "could be helpful, but there's not a ton of strong evidence to support them at this point," Taglia said.
Instead, experts encourage people to focus on methods that are proven to protect and stimulate collagen naturally. "Your best bet is to focus on things that do have robust evidence behind them," said Maya Jonas, an assistant professor of dermatology at Ohio State University. That includes wearing sunscreen and other sun protection and using vitamin A-based products like retinol, which have been proven to stimulate collagen production, Godoy writes.
Jonas adds that diet and lifestyle play a major role. She recommends a diet rich in fruits and vegetables, which provide antioxidants like vitamin C, along with nuts and seeds, which are good sources of zinc and copper and help support collagen production. A balanced Mediterranean-style diet, combined with "avoiding alcohol, not smoking and avoiding secondhand smoke," can help preserve skin health, she said.
Senna notes that everyday habits matter, too. Poor sleep and stress can take a toll on skin, while exercise can improve blood flow to the skin and may help counteract the loss of elasticity and dermal thickness that comes with aging, she said.
Ultimately, Godoy writes, maintaining collagen isn't just about supplements — it's about overall wellness. Healthy lifestyle choices, consistent sun protection, and evidence-based skin care are not just good for skin, but overall health, too.
(Godoy, NPR, 10/20)
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